ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustmentbarry mccaffrey wife

My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. My 8n lifts and lowers great in when the system is in "Position Control". Includes left and right anchors.OEM #: 957E596, 957E597.Applic.. $14.36 $15.69 Spring, Hydraulic Control - 9N547B We keep the brush down in the woods. }, Pivot pins was mentioned. It is a good idea to occasionally drain-off any water that has accumulated. If the knock is faint you can probably put off repairs for quite a while. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. Luckily the tractor gets little work. "@type": "Organization", We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? It will work ok but obviously won't be a year-round fluid for many areas. I have the same problem. Most of the time this is caused by shock loading the draft linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. 2009-10-02 166108. It is critical. My lift works by itself but not with a heavy load on it.. Officers and Directors Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. When having a 5' foot bush hog connected to the 3 pt arms, the lift height is maybe 3" to 4" max. After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. FORD 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 601 800 TRACTOR LIFT CONTROL LEVER 9N512A . If the lift wont raise at all, first make sure the pto is engaged and the pto shaft is turning as it should be. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. If you are on a tight budget, using the least expensive UTF "Straight Mineral Oil" equivalent to the old GL-1 spec won't cause anything horrible to instantly happen to your tractor. } Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. The control valve spools in the pump base can leak due to scoring in the bores but this is rare and generally not repairable except by a major pump rebuild. It should be straight. Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", Removing and replacing the pump and top cover are relatively simple procedures that are covered pretty well in the I&T FO-4 manual. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. If the cylinder is leaking, you will see it. Simple to make from the hardware store. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? }, Please use the navigational links to explore our website. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. $32.95 . I also checked the length of the constant draft control spring, and adjusted the position control spring to the specified 1 29/32 inches. It may not have been changed in many years. Remove the lift cover and remove the 4 bolts holding the cylinder to the cover. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. Wrong? If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. Looking for some advise on an issue with Ford 800. My tractors are working tractors. A shop press is ideal, but creative use of a floor jack or bottle jack and heavy chain can straighten lots of parts. They simply wear out and need to be replaced. The worst spot for that is the drain plug where the pump is. Thanks. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Many of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid only needs to be changed once or twice a year. This is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight. "name": "Roger S" A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Press or drive the worn pin out. Check the pump pressure as outlined in the I&T FO-4 manual. If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. Raise the lift control lever and watch inside the cavity for oil leaking out from above in the area of the lift cylinder. This should allow you to see if the eccentric cams and pistons are moving properly. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. Leakdown is probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Thanks for te help. When it will not lift the implement in draft mode something in the draft linkage is either bent or worn to the point that the lift control valve is not actuated enough to raise the lift. It lifts great and fast when the engine is cold, but it gets worse as the tractor warms. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. $14.99 . Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. Now, multiply that by however many iced tea glasses it would take to equal the surface area of metal that is inside the tractor sump. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. Am I missing something? Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. I'll let you know how I do. "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. This could be severe leakage at the cylinder, a bad relief valve, or a badly worn pump. Here is the pic. If you plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want. If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. Serial Number Lookup This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. (b) Operation of Valve. Another question if I may. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. { Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). " There is no way to explain why you were hugging your tractor with one arm in each inspection hole. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. "author": { It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Enough to cause the lift issues? I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! "@type": "ImageObject", "interactionStatistic": { }, I'm new to this forum stuff. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. If temperatures have been below freezing, the water will freeze. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? You've done it, I haven't. I'm new to this forum stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. Ice could block passages that allow oil to get into the pump. If the implement drops as soon as you push the clutch pedal in, you have major leakage. I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. With about 800 pounds on the lift arms, the front tires start to come off the ground. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. (gritting of the teeth) How's this procedure Zane? "@type": "InteractionCounter", Remove the PTO shaft. Water in the hydraulic fluid is very bad. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. The main reason we replace the fluid is the amount of water that eventually has mixed with it. Pic attached. Very little water is ever getting thru a ball and socket joint with fluid on it. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? Support the lower links near the raised position, and place the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant. Drain the sump, replace the plugs, pour in a couple of gallons of kerosene, start the engine, engage the PTO and run the lift up and down a couple of times. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. First, it causes rust and corrosion. Just give them a ring to get started. From the Operator's Manual: (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. "height": 57 The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. Enough to cause the lift issues? This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. "@type": "Person", It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Dean Is the control arm straight? In cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the pump. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. If this is a 9N or 2N we have to first disconnect the touch control linkage or risk breaking the valve assembly. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Extending or neglecting to do fluid changes only guarantees that there will be problems. Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. Still, that is just native grass and weeds. ", Pic attached. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. }, My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. Internal Adjustments. } A weak lift may not work at all with synthetic fluid. You must log in or register to reply here. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", Thanks. Did you ever solve it? I did a lot of work on the first one, so I'm familiar with how they work, but I've never encountered this problem. Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. Dont use a high pressure or youll blast the piston out of there like a rocket. Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. Terms and Privacy Policy, Shows and EventsF/FCA ShowsFeatured ShowsPrevious F/FCA Shows, ServiceMaintenance & RepairsOriginal AccessoriesSherman TransmissionsSpecifications & Data, Equipment RegistryEarly 9N by S/NRoad Maintainer Registry, Restorations150 80N Show Tractor47 8N Restoration8N Funk Conversions8N LawnmowerSOS LawnmowerSt Jude 8n ProjectWorthington Tractors. "image": { Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just beat it flat that's all you need to do Do you have the lift cover off if so wait for the jig you may not need the washer trickBut if you do you may have to get different thickness washers I have found you can move the draft plunger in to far by using a washer that's to thick All in said and done preform the first step adjust the draft control as Zane instructed the rest will fall into place Life will be good welding is your call welding is your call Welding is my call? He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. "datePublished": "2001-10-31", b. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. The rest of that space is air and metal. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. Any moisture we can drain off this way will not be in there to mix with the fluid when it warms up. John It must be straight. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. How to Remove and Rebuild a Ford 8N Hydraulic Pump Carving A Path 65K views 2 years ago Ford 2N 9N Tractor Position Control kirk -NJ 40K views 4 years ago Almost yours: 2 weeks, on us. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. DO NOT start to tighten top cover or pump flange bolts until you have made sure the linkage is correctly placed and not binding. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. This is easy to check just remove the side door and watch the oil move. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. This is usually a sign of a defective or sticking valve in the pump. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring.

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